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Part 1 of 6

THE FLORIDA EVERGLADES

Introduction

From: FICUS Network - USF University of South Florida

The Everglades is Florida's most famous natural area. On their maps, the early Spaniards called it "El Laguno del Espiritu Sanctu"-the Lake of the Holy Spirit-a worthy name for such an extraordinary place. Said Marjory Stoneman Douglas in her book, The Everglades: River of Grass:

"There are no other Everglades in the world. They are, they have always been, one of the unique regions of the earth, remote, never wholly known. Nothing anywhere else is like them: their vast glittering openness, wider than the enormous visible round of the horizon, the racing free saltness and sweetness of their massive winds, under the dazzling blue heights of space. They are unique also in the simplicity, the diversity, the related harmony of the forms of life they enclose. The miracle of the light pours over the green and brown expanse of saw grass and of water, shining and slow-moving below, the grass and water that is the meaning and the central fact of the Everglades of Florida. It is a river of grass."

The Everglades Basin contains many kinds of native ecosystems: rivers; lakes; open ponds; sawgrass marshes; small tree islands of bald cypresses, willows, and slash pines; large hardwood hammocks of bays and other trees; sloughs; and mangrove swamps. All are acted on by the powerful natural forces of sun, water, wind, and fire. Subtle changes in elevation create the right conditions for the various plant communities and the animals that inhabit these areas.

The River of Grass, the best-known natural feature of the Everglades, is sawgrass. The long leaves of sawgrass, pointed with silica and as sharp as a saw blade, can grow to six feet or higher. Frequent fires hold back shrubs and favor the sawgrass and other marsh vegetation that grows around the ponds and sloughs.

The flat Everglades Basin is sometimes flooded and, at other times, completely dry. Species in the Everglades have adapted to seasonal and long-term fluctuations in water levels and, in some parts of the system, to varying salinity levels. Alligators and other species, for example, have evolved so that they engineer their nesting areas instinctively depending on water levels. Birds fly from one area to another as their food sources shift. (See Chapter 5 on Florida's Wetland and Freshwater Ecosystems, as well as Chapter 7 on Florida's Coastal and Marine Ecosystems, for more information on how these natural areas function.)

This amazing region, once home to vast quantities of life and still an important biological resource, has been designated an International Biosphere Reserve, a Wetland of International Significance, and a National Wilderness Area. Everglades National Park has been called the crown jewel of the National Park system-a major treasure.

The Original Everglades

The Everglades watershed once covered almost a third of Florida, beginning just south of Orlando and ending more than 200 miles farther south in Florida Bay. Upstream from Lake Okeechobee, natural drainage created the channels of the Kissimmee River, Taylor Creek, and Fisheating Creek. Lake Okeechobee was a shallow depression about halfway down the watershed that collected water and passed much of it on to the Everglades. The lake and its tributaries comprised more than 4,500 square miles of upstream watershed for the Everglades.

In the original Everglades marsh (about 3,600 square miles), the slope was so gradual and water moved so slowly that no channel formed. Instead, the flow was conducted by a wide, shallow marsh about 110 miles wide at its maximum-the River of Grass. It took almost a year for Lake Okeechobee's water to flow south to Florida Bay.

The Atlantic Coastal Ridge runs parallel to, and between, the east coast of southern Florida and the River of Grass. Rain on the western slope of this ridge drained west into the Everglades. The River of Grass rose and fell along the west slope of the coastal ridge, creating vast wetlands and important feeding, nesting, and migratory resting areas for millions of wading birds. On high ground, the panther roamed, as did the deer and smaller land mammals that provided its food. At breaks in the ridge, some water drained from the River of Grass to the sea. Most went south to Florida Bay.

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For information on the Everglades and the Florida panther, contact the following agencies (see the listing of governmental agencies in the back of the guide):
South Florida Water Management District
Florida Game and Fresh Water Fish Commission
Florida Department of Environmental Regulation
Florida Department of Natural Resources
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers
Nonprofit organizations working to preserve the remnant Everglades and native Everglades species such as the Florida panther include the following (see the listing of nongovernmental organizations in the back of the guide):
Florida Audubon Society
Florida Defenders of the Environment
Florida Wildlife Federation's Foreverglades Project
Friends of the Everglades
Sierra Club
Wilderness Society
For a 40-page, illustrated booklet on the Florida panther, contact:

Florida Power and Light
Corporate Communications
P.O. Box 029100
Miami, FL 33102-9100

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